Monday, November 13, 2017

H'moon 3 - Mada Tsingy

We woke up early to re pack our bags. We were leaving half our luggage with Maggy so we could meet the weight requirements for the little charter plane. We ate breakfast and met our driver Bootsi, who took us to the small but relatively clean charter landing strip. On the way there, the dirt roads were incredibly bumpy and there were shacks along the streets.  People were walking everybody, alongside cars, motor bikes, and trailors pulled by donkeys.  As we pulled up, there was a huge door with a guard, when the door slid to the slide, we pulled into where the planes were.  We had to wait a bit and walked the grounds.  There was a broken down plane right nearby!  We met our pilot Ellie, Nadine took a quick pee break, and then we headed towards the runaway.  Sure enough we were taxing to the same single runway that we landed on to arrive (where the big planes land)! And off we went, it was time to hike the big Tsingy! The highlight of our Madagascar trip!

We made some observations on the flight over.  The farmed fields were interesting. In USA everything is squares. Here the agriculture works around the topography!  We also noticed a dark smog line at the horizon in every direction, and burning trees away to clear land.  
As we neared our landing strip, we could see the Tsingy from the sky.  It look amazing and so vast.  We got excited!

The landing strip was barely that. Just some cleared off red earth surrounded by huge termite mounds, plus it was right after a huge cliff, so better not cut it short!  When we landed in Ambhorodia, two guides Loda/Deepo and a driver Michele met us.  We hopped in the jeep-like vehicle and rode the tumultuous trek to the Tsingy Park.  There are terrible roads, and then there is this road.  There were downed trees, puddles, ruts...if you had to hold a cup of coffee, there wouldn't have been a drop left.  But along the way we passed small villages, and also burial tombs for families.  We enjoyed seeing their culture.

We pulled up to the parking lot, and it was packed!  We got out and it was blazing hot.  We both had to pee, so they pointed to the toilet.  We walked over to it...and it was disgusting.  Standing water, strong smells...we both decided to go outside right next to it.


We walked back, put our climbing harnesses gear on, and began our 4 hour hike around 10 am.  The beginning of the hike was through a flat dry forest, and we came upon our first Lemur!  It was up in a tree notch, and when we made noise, he would poke his head out (the crazy eyes!) and pop back.  He was so cute, but we had to keep moving.  Then we came upon a cute family of Brown Lemurs, we watched them for awhile, and then finally got to the Tsingy!  The limestone rocks were majestic like a natural cathedral. They had a presence as if they had a low hum.  Smaller rocks and cables were bolted into the Tsingy, forming steps and a railing to attach our harnesses. Our guides led us on the circuitous trail up and down ladders, view points, and caves.  While we were on top of the Tsingy, it was stunning quiet but also amazingly fresh.  In a landscape that was so intense and dangerous, we felt very peaceful and recharged.  Then we came to the scary part- the swing bridge! 

Nadine had been dreading the swing bridge since she saw the first picture, but as if by magic, felt absolutely no fear as she made her way across! The trails were truly well maintained and safe. Dave also crossed the bridge effortlessly, pausing for some exhilarating pictures! 

As we made our way back to the end of the hike, we saw some pretty birds and also a huge hawk!  As rolled in, we were the only people left in the parking lot. We cooled off for a bit, and then drove to our hotel, where we took a dip in the infinity pool with some Malagasy beer before heading out for a night walk with our guide. We saw the mouse lemur, iguana, gecko, and even some jack fruit and mangoes.  Dinner was pizza and more beer at the hotel.  But Dave's pizza also had a salad in the middle, even though we aware to avoid raw veggies, it looked so yummy to Dave (and maybe he had an extra a beer or two on his honeymoon), so he ate it all.  Ut oh!  Later that morning, his belly would awaken to discover his mistake. 




Driving to Airstrip


Door to enter terminal


Outdoor bathroom (look in the mirror!)


Nadine nervous before the flight



Our plane!


Views over Antananarivo


Flying over the Tsingy...WOW!


Our plane on the Ambhorodia landing strip


Our road to the Tsingy






Driving by rural villages



Driving by burial tombs

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Tsingy National Park



Toilet at the parking lot


Getting ready for our hike!



Hiking Trail Conditions








Our first lemurs!





Ferret, Lizard & Birds







The Tsingy!











The Bridge!






Silly Tsingy!


Mongoose, Lizard & Birds







End of the hike


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